For the first 100 yards inland from the Mediterranean, the Rivieras of France and Italy are just as you dreamed. Glamorous beaches. Villas wrapped in gardens. Jet-set-worthy villages. But there's so much more. This breathtaking coast is one of our favorite places on earth…both elegant and slightly rustic, with the best food you'll ever eat. You may spot would-be starlets. But the ladies in the marketplace are even more common with their pyramids of melons, baskets of basil, and silvery cascades of fresh anchovy. Along the French Riviera—the handy name for the coastline of Provence—we tour villages are likely to perch high on a cliff rather than at sea level. Impressionist treasures, spectacular seaside trails, perfume distillers and porcelain studios compete for attention. Where the Alps dip into the sea, it's easy to cross into the Italian Riviera, where our vacation explores the mellow coastal lifestyle around Portofino…and some of the loveliest, sun-drenched paths we've ever discovered. This is the journey we make when we can't decide if we're in the mood for France or Italy.

We meet in the charming medieval town of Nice for an afternoon walk that includes the daily market and a visit to the ruins and gardens overlooking the city. In the morning an age-old coastal footpath lined with oleander and orange trees leads us from Villefranche to St. Jean Cap Ferrat. We'll wander in Eze—the highest of the perched villages—and stop at a perfume factory to see how lavender is distilled.

St. Paul de Vence (2 nights) is among the region's loveliest villages and is home to some of the world's finest 20th century art. We'll taste the tarte à l'orange and meet the local artisans in Tourette-sur-Loup. At the end of a beautiful walk we'll take the mineral waters in Vence and visit the Chapelle du Rosaire with its stained glass windows by Matisse.

Our first glimpse of Italy is from a spectacular but undemanding trail that passes gemlike villages in the Alpes-Maritimes. Across the border, we settle into seaside Santa Margherita (3 nights). We stroll along the coast to romantic Portofino, with time for people-watching and some homemade gelato. We'll also visit tiny St. Fruttuoso monastery. It's accessible only on foot or by the boat we take back home in the afternoon. To take advantage of the unforgettable paths found here, a glorious outdoor day begins in the pine woods near Ruta…pauses for lunch in San Rocco…and leads past the classic villas near Camogli…with time to spare for afternoon shopping. On our final day, we explore Genova, home of Christopher Columbus, before parting company.