Drinking in the sunset and the Chianti at our friend Marco's farmhouse, we decided that

Tuscany couldn't be improved upon. Since he's a staunch Tuscan, he surprised us by saying, "Then you've never been to the Cinque Terre." So we went. They're not far, these five once almost unreachable villages that grow out of rock along the Ligurian Sea. For centuries, a connecting footpath was their lifeline, but for us it's the scenic route into a remote and vibrant coastal culture. Beforehand, we spend four nights in the parts of Tuscany we love best…complete with hilltowns that rise out of silver-green olive groves, homemade prosciutto and potato ravioli and the sunny vineyards of Chianti. Throughout, we'll explore the art history, and savor the food and wine. But in the end, will you prefer Tuscany or the Cinque Terre? The good news is that because this trip gives you both, you don't have to decide.