In more ways than one, Sicily is the ultimate Italy. Geographically, it's the southernmost province—

warm, golden, and sprinkled with blindingly white Greek temples that are among the world's best preserved. And culturally it's more like Italy as we'd have imagined it a hundred years ago. Farmers still get to market by donkey. Mt. Etna is active even today and is the backdrop to almost every view. Even the bread is rougher and crustier—better to match vibrant food unlike any other you'll find in Italy. We've scouted a remarkably scenic circuit that captures the spirit of Sicily. There's Palermo, of course…and the rock-clinging seaside beauty of Taormina. From beautifully sited lodgings, we set out on walks among the temples and along spectacular seashores. Offshore, we wander the jewel-like Aeolian Islands. And we're inclined to agree with the poet who wrote: "To have seen Italy without seeing Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all."