For the first 100 yards inland from the Mediterranean, the Rivieras of France and Italy

are just as you dreamed. Glamorous beaches. Villas wrapped in gardens. Jet-set-worthy villages. But there's so much more. This breathtaking coast is one of our favorite places on earth…both elegant and slightly rustic, with the best food you'll ever eat. You may spot would-be starlets. But the ladies in the marketplace are even more common with their pyramids of melons, baskets of basil, and silvery cascades of fresh anchovy. Along the French Riviera—the handy name for the coastline of Provence—villages are likely to perch high on a cliff rather than at sea level. Impressionist treasures, spectacular seaside trails, perfume distillers and porcelain studios compete for attention. Where the Alps dip into the sea, it's easy to cross into Italy and the mellow coastal lifestyle around Portofino…and some of the loveliest, sun-drenched paths we've ever discovered. This is the journey we make when we can't decide if we're in the mood for France or Italy.