Everything we love best about France comes in almost embarrassing abundance in the Dordogne

region. Great food? This is gastronomic heaven, the home of foie gras and rustic stews, where the simplest meal is reason enough for living. Culture? The nearby Vezere River Valley's vivid cave paintings are some of the earliest signs of European man. History? From the 13th to 15th centuries, the Dordogne was the border between France and England; the fortifications, châteaux and villages built so close together for defense now make for lovely, compact walks. On a very civilized note, we sip our way through a vineyard or two and visit farmers, tradesmen and artisans. It's the life of the rural gentry graced by some of the loveliest inns we've ever discoverd against a backdrop of sunflower fields and stately forest— all wrapped up in a casual country style unique to the picturesque southwest corner of France.