In Naples (1 night), we’ll take a stroll in the historic district with its Gothic Duomo, excavations of San Lorenzo Maggiore and tiny workshops where terra cotta figures are painted. Our guide, a native Neapolitan, takes us to his favorite pizzeria for lunch then we’re off to Praiano, our picturesque seaside perch on the Amalfi Coast (5 nights).

Here, we’ll enjoy cooking instructions in our friend Antonella’s cliffside home and with one of Positano’s most famous chefs. We’ll explore the scenic path to Positano where the shopping for shoes and ceramics is exceptional. After boating back, we put on aprons to whip up a local specialty like totani e patate, Praiano’s stew of seafood and potatoes.

The morning ferry from Sorrento takes us to Capri for a day of very civilized walks…a visit to Villa San Michele…and lunch at an exclusive seaside club. We’ll also take the trail to a dramatic cliffside monastery and explore Ravello with its panoramic views of the Bay of Salerno. Throughout the week, we’ll visit with artisans, taste the local wines, and walk through lemon groves before seeing how limoncello, the region’s distinctive lemon liquor, is made. On our final day, we wander the streets of Pompeii on a privately guided tour before returning to Naples.